Camino Day 1: St Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles
“It’s your road, and yours alone. Others may walk it with you but no one can walk it for you.”
DAY 1: 28.9 kilometres - 41,744 STEPS
We are both excited to start walking but it doesn’t begin smoothly. Donna’s pack has a broken clip on the harness, without it all the weight will bear down on her shoulders rather than settle on her hips. I insist we try the hiking store to see if they can help. It’s 7am as we trudge in the opposite direction to our destination, up the steep cobblestone street but the store is open and yes! they have a clip. It’s not a perfect fit, we will need to sew the strap to keep it tight. I am delighted it works it will make the walk so much easier but Donna is all grumps and put out, not in a positive state of mind to start our journey.
We join the steady stream of pilgrims leaving the town at 7.45am winding our way up the hill to the mountain pass. We will take the Napoleon Road, the most challenging physical stretch of this Camino, and arguably the most beautiful. It’s reputation is intimidating yet I am confident we can do it.
The scenery is spectacular, far more picturesque at the lower levels and more spectacular at the higher ones than I could have imagined. The weather is perfect, cool and sunny with an icy wind only at the very highest peaks. We can see as far away as the alps!
Throughout the day we “fall in” with other pilgrims, chatting briefly or more extensively dependant on mood and walking speed. Everyone is excited and running on adrenaline.
Donna has problems with her untested Camelpak. Halfway up I unpack her pack and see the problem – it’s upside down so the water can’t reach the flow tube – an easy fix. I feel guilty not stopping earlier to help. She’s walked a long way with no water! Our lunch was sourced yesterday from St Jean, jamon, fresh bread and the most delicious little french macaroons. We picnic by the side of the trail. Food (and water!) lift both our spirits.
This track is hard, with extensive uphill sections, however it’s not as difficult as I had anticipated. The perfect weather and the stunning views help us push up the mountain with no real difficulty. I am in my happy place.
At the very top we find a small van selling tea and coffee. It’s an isolated spot and a very welcome sight. We sit huddled out of the wind with a few other pilgrims, beginning to appreciate just how difficult this stretch could be in bad weather. We pass waymarkers for pilgrims who have died on this section of the trail. In these perfect conditions, the way is clear, but this area is prone to fog and poor weather conditions can fatal. Donna’s friend had attempted the Camino a few seasons ago, started out on the Naploeon Road which was closed by the French authorities just after he set out, he was lost in a white-out on the mountain, ended up evacuated to hospital with severe frostbite, lucky to escape with his life. His Camino journey over before it started.
We begin the descent through extensive woodlands, a completely different terrain to the French side. It is Spring but some areas are a foot deep in crispy autumn leaves. In the final kilometres we opt for the longer but less steep descent into Roncesvalles. We meet Jean-Claude who began his camino in Lu Puy. He has already walked over 1000 kms. When we finally enter Roncesvalles and find our beautiful hotel we are stunned. It looks too perfect, like a page from Gourmet Traveller, we are almost embarrassed to traipse our dirty boots and packs inside across the flagstone pavers of this converted 17th Century Monastery.
POSTCARDS FROM St Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles
Map From ST Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles
Video from St Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles
Stage One: St Jean Pied de Port to Logrono
