Camino Day 9: Logrono to Najera
“I took a walk in the woods and came out taller than the trees.”
Day 9: 29.9 kilometres - 46,000 Steps
Logrono is a university town and we had so much fun last night at the various tapas bars, we’d really like to stay another day here to explore some more, but the Camino is calling, so on we walk.
Leaving the city we spend some time walking along the side of the main road, but then we enter a peaceful nature reserve with a huge lake complete with swans. Unfortunately it’s not long before the way turns back along the main road, with its raucous traffic noises. High on the hill above us a huge cut out of a black torro (bull) towers over us, an advertisement for a winery.
I was expecting some time by the main roads, and this feels like the first of it – nine days in, that’s better than I was expecting, and the whole day is not by the freeway, just passages, before we veer off into farm tracks away from the modern world we are feeling increasingly detached from.
We pass a curious ”chozo” a beehive shaped hut, a small stone building used as shelter for farm labourers. I peek inside and discover that someone has painted some of these old worn stones; a face, the moon and stars, it’s a beautiful and unexpected gallery. Tonight, we are staying in Najera, a small town squeezed strategically between the river and a dramatic rock face.
We have walked almost 30 kms and we are hoping our room has a bath – success! And yet – no plug. This is quite common in our hotels, we keep trying unsuccessfully to buy a bath plug from some store along The Way, meanwhile, a shower cap filled with socks does the trick. We are finding our Camino rhythm, we usually start walking after breakfast at around 8am, generally get to our destination town sometime around 3 in the afternoon, when the town is shut down for siesta. We head to our room for some quiet time and then around 5pm when the town starts to wake up, we go out to explore and find dinner.
When we entered Najera in the afternoon, all was quiet, the shutters drawn on the shops, the only movement coming from the flags fluttering on the bridge across the river. When we emerge from our room, the town is heaving, we notice flags and banners everywhere, and crowds leading us to the town square. We have arrived on the evening of an annual fiesta and it’s very exciting. There are parades and entertainment.
This town was the capital of the Kingdom of Navarre in the 11th and 12th Century and they are clearly proud of their heritage. A gorgeous young couple have been crowned – King and Queen of Najera, they happily chat with me and pose for photos before heading up the high balcony overlooking the square and throw candy to the children below. We bump into the Melbourne Boys and grab a table in the square. We support the local sausage sizzle – it includes a glass of wine for two Euro (yep its pretty rough!) On the stage, the band plays Disney tunes and the singer, in a string of recognisable Princess gowns sings along in Spanish. A balloon seller stands around – doing no business. A helium balloon of Dora the Explorer catches my eye, I can’t resist. Small people are starting to fall asleep on the laps of their parents, and we all need real food, so we head out of the square to get some dinner.
POSTCARDS FROM Logrono to Najera
