Sifnos; A Paradise of Poets, Potters, and Pure Greek Cuisine
PHOTOGRAPHY - IRJALIINA PAAVONPERA
“A beautiful island in the western part of the Cyclades, Sifnos has remained relatively unspoiled, due to the success of its nearby sisters, Mykonos and Santorini. ”
Deep in the Cyclades lies a charming quiet island steeped in a rich and respected history of poetic fame and masterful pottery spanning hundreds of years. Upon arrival from Piraeus, you will arrive at the port of Kamares, to be greeted by friendly locals and a simple uncluttered beauty. For those island hopping, ferries also arrive from Western Cyclades islands; Kythnos, Serifos, Milos, Folegandros and Kimolos.
A beautiful island in the western part of the Cyclades, Sifnos has remained relatively unspoiled, due to the success of its nearby sisters, Mykonos and Santorini. With its traditional Cycladic architecture, tranquil villages, stunning beaches, beautiful churches, and relaxed atmosphere, it has numerous sights worth visiting and many activities to delight visitors of all ages.
While Sifnos is not considered a ‘tourist island’ it still attracts many visitors in July and August for being one of the most authentic of the Cyclades. Sifnos is adorned with the blues and whites of the more popular islands, yet with an ease and walkability that is second to none. Year-round it is inhabited by mostly farmers and; fishermen, yet also hosts a small community of artists, writers, and academics who comprise an ex-pat community scattered throughout the islands dozen villages, enhancing its artistic heritage.
In the summer season, Sifnos also offers an active nightlife for all ages. Cars and motor bikes are available for hire, and there are buses which run regularly to the various beaches, offering spectacular views of countryside and sea. Taxis are also plentiful across the island.
Poets
Sifnos is known as the ‘Poets Island’ as the birthplace of famous poets, like Ioannis Gryparis, Kleanthis Triantafyllou (or Rampagas) and Aristomenis Provelegios, to name a few. The island thrives with poetic inspiration evident in breathtaking sea views and charming villages. Today a number of poets, writers, and artists of all kinds, flock to Sifnos to honor its history and pay tribute to artistic accomplishments then and now. Many exhibits, writers and artists workshops are held on Sifnos, and the island also attracts annually many writers in residence.
Potters
Coupled with exhibits of stunning clay pottery both old and new, the sense of Sifnos being a place where heaven meets earth is powerfully apparent.
Its pottery history is fascinating, and the locals love to indulge the stories of years past and how the art continues to flourish on the island. Through the centuries, Sifnian potters travelled to the rest of Greece and transferred their expertise of turning clay into masterful cooking utensils.
Out of the cooking utensils that the potters used to make, the most well-known were “tsikali” and “mastelo”. “Tsikali” was the most basic product, exported from Sifnos. Made of refractory clay and highly resistant to fire, it was well-known throughout Greece as the best cooking utensil.
Characteristic traditional utensils of the island included “foufou”, traditional clay portable brazier, and “flaros”, a structure placed on the sun porch of the house, in the opening where the fireplace smoke comes out. Swimming in the sea, it is sometimes possible to retrieve an old piece of broken pottery from days gone past.
The tourist growth on the island from 1970 greatly encouraged the continued art of pottery. It is encouraging that young people evolved this art with original creations which they proudly exhibit or sell in their workshops. Most of the items produced now are mugs, platters, with only some traditional ceramics such as the crock and “flaros” made for different use. The crock has now become a decorative utensil and “flaros” is used as a lamp in many gardens and tavernas.
Pure Greek Cuisine
Sifnos is increasingly becoming well known for its authentic and delicious cuisine, made possible with amazing chefs and the many local farms. In 2018, National Geographic named Sifnos ‘The Cyclades Hottest Food Scene’
One of the secrets of the Sifnian cuisine is the cooking in clay utensils in a wooden oven. The composition of the Sifnian clay makes it suitable for manufacturing fire resistant cookware.
The typical dish of the island is goat or lamb washed only with local red wine flavored with plenty of dill and then placed on vine-shoots in order to roast with the steams of the red wine and not to boil. The roasting is made in the wooden oven, in a special ceramic pot, the mastelo, from where its name derives. Mastelo is a dish that is traditionally served in Sifnos at Easter, but now you can find it in restaurants throughout the year.
Revithada (slow baked chickpeas stew), is a traditional Sunday Sifnian dish baked for hours in a wooden oven in a special cooking pot called “skepastaria”. More specific, it is baked slowly in the wooden oven from Saturday night till the following morning, after the Sunday church service. After all these hours of baking the result is truly delicious. Revithada is also served as a first course n almost all festivals in Sifnos.
Chickpeas are one of the most famous dishes of the local cuisine. Thickly ground chickpeas flavored with herbs such as marjoram and fried in plenty of oil until golden.
Local cheeses such as gylomeni manoura, xynomyzithra, chloromanoura are an integral part of the Sifnian cuisine.
Sifnos bakeries are another specialty adorning the island. Amazing scones, anise cookies, biscuits and fragrant cakes are in abundance. Choose from honeyed, fragrant and soft nougat (without added sugar), almond macaroons (both baked and in the casserole), patties stuffed with nuts, Turkish delight, and a host of other sweet and savory baked goods.
Valerie Paavonpera
Explore the Cyclades Islands
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POSTCARDS FROM Sifnos
