Camino Day 38: Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela
“What would life be if we had no courage to attempt anything?”
Day 37: x kms - x steps
Our final day walking. We had a strategy today. Now everyone is talking about the Botafumeiro. We all want to see it swing, it’s a highlight of arriving at Santiago. But the church are evasive, they will not guarantee when it will swing. Traditionally, at Friday night mass, but now perhaps not. Groups of pilgrims can pay/make a donation and the church may oblige. It’s an uncertain prospect.
I had convinced Sylvie we should leave early on Friday morning so we could make it for the 12 oclock mass, thereby increasing our chance of seeing it. Then the boys mentioned they heard a rumour that someone had paid for the Botafumerio on Friday at noon, so we all agreed to make an early start. Also we all feel ready to finish – so bring it on!!
So this morning we got up early for a 6am breakfast and set off in the dark and pouring rain at about 6.30am. The initial walk was through dense woodland, and then a thunderstorm started complete with lightning. Good grief. Sylvies glasses started to fog up so she couldn’t see. I gave her my headlamp and I had to use the lightning flashes to guide me – not very successfully, stepping into deep puddles and with mud everywhere, clusters of pilgrims huddling together everywhere.
The boys caught up with us just as we were entering Santiago, which was awesome, it meant we all entered the square together – all soaking wet but very happy – it seemed fitting to arrive together. Lots of photos jumping up in front of the Cathedral.
We only had a short time to make it to the mass, and we needed to drop our backpacks (not allowed in the cathedral) at the pilgrims centre. What we found was a crazy bedlam, with an unfathomably long queue of pilgrims snaking around the grounds all waiting to receive their Compostela’s. By the time we found the luggage store, and got back to the Cathedral, all the chairs were taken, but we found the boys and some other buddies from the trail in a choice position with good viewing of the Botufumerio – should it swing. Mass went on for an hour - all in Spanish, followed by a communion which seemed to take forever. Not being Catholic we did not partake.
We were thrilled when a group of burly priests dressed in Burgundy approached the Botufumerio. The energy level amped up considerably. People stood up and pushed forward, cameras (strictly forbidden!) popped up EVERYWHERE. The Cathedral seats 1000 people and at least that many were standing – not all of them pilgrims of course, many tourists. As we stood there, dripping wet and freezing cold we were mesmerized by the huge incense burner, which once lit was jerked up by strong pulls on the rope, one large rope with eight tails, and to the rhythm of the pulls, slowly began to swing. The smell of the incense was sweet and intense and the smoke wafted over the congregation – originally it was used to fumigate the stinking pilgrims. It swung so high it felt sure to hit the ceiling. And beneath it the pilgrims stared all eyes on the pendulum in open mouthed wonder. Spectacular, an incredible symbolic end to our pilgrimage.
When the service was over, of course we had to walk down to the crypt for a look at the Saints bones. Well at least the silver box they are reportedly contained in. It is remarkable to think that for centuries people have walked this path, and all because of these bones. Relics are something I just don’t understand.
The Cathedral itself was under renovation, its famous front entrance off limits. For me, the Botufumerio was enough. We left, shivering, keen for hot showers at our hotel.
We had arranged to meet Jean Claude and his wife or drinks at their hotel at 7pm which meant we had the afternoon at our disposal. Sylvie and I decided to get our hair done, a proper treat. The two other girls in the salon were also pilgrims on a pamper session.
After drinks and dinner, the two boys and Sylvie and I wandered up to a fun fair which was operating from the large park in town. We ate churros and wandered through the rides and vendors until we got to the very top – and the Ferris wheel. Sylvie opted out but the boys and I each bought a ticket to ride. As the tourist who vacated the seat for us exited she said – pointedly – that was fast! So I thought the ride would be short, but no it was super speedy, quite ridiculously so. At first, we were enjoying the views of the town and surrounds but as the speed picked up we were whizzing around at crazy speed – half expecting to spin off in into the darkness. We giggled and squealed and thought - what a bizarre way to end our pilgrimage.
