Camino Day 24: Leon to Villavante
“How lucky I am to have something that makes saying goodbye so hard.”
Day 24: 34 kilometres - 34,700 steps
Farewelled Donna this morning. It grieves me to see her go. She has been an excellent travel buddy and has been so open to the whole Camino experience, helping me to see a different side this journey, than just a hiking holiday.
It rained ALL DAY.
Rain makes it harder to enjoy the scenery because my rain hood restricts my movement and the tendency is to hunker down and push against the rain and wind.
At the 20km point, Sylvie called for a transfer to the hotel so I walked with Rob and Philip. The rain got heavier and I felt like a child. When was the last time I walked in the rain for longer that a few minutes (this trip excepted)? I remember as a teenager I spent a romantic night walking in the pouring rain. I haven’t thought about that in forever..so it was quite fun to surrender to the rain and just walk with a happy heart.
The last couple of kilometres we talked about what we were hoping would be waiting for us at the hotel. Rob wanted a cup of tea, Philip wanted a fire and I was craving a piece of cake. When we arrived we had it all. We stumbled into the foyer of our gorgeous farmhouse, our host helping us out of our wet weather gear, the boots, coats and overpants stiff and dripping. They then escorted us to the fire where tea and cake were waiting!
Earlier, when Sylvie had called for a pickup they had driven past us on the road – asked if we wanted a ride – we said no and she asked if we were crazy – to walk 10kms in the pouring rain. Later still, collecting another pilgrim client she pulled over the Phillip & Rob asking – Where is Lisa? I was walking ahead of them by 1/2km – maybe she thought they had abandoned me? She then pulled up to me to ask if I needed a lift – apparently its not normal for pilgrims to walk so far in the rain – which honestly surprised me.
This casa is an old mill, built above the river and its gorgeous. We are all sitting around the fire, boots lined up to dry on the hearth. I am in my happy place.
Postscript
After dinner, two peregrino’s knocked on the door. Jesus Sandals and Crocs and Socks. We had passed these two young hippies earlier in the day, they were walking old school – no backpacks just staffs and knapsacks tied to them. They really stood out to me because his shoes were just flip flops with extra string, his feet were all plastered and sore and she was wearing crocs with socks – in the pouring rain. They were laughing uncontrollable for at least half an hour (a little too happy).
This evening they present in the dark at 9pm at the only casa for miles and our gracious host welcomes them in, gives them tea and cake and a place by the fire. Most of the guests are already in bed but our host cooks them dinner and allows them to sleep on the mezzanine level in the library – the house is full. The next morning the other guests are surprised when two bedraggled pilgrims sheepishly mooch downstairs for breakfast. They don’t join us but wait for us all to finish – not quite so giggly this morning.
I am filled with respect for our hostess for not turning them away.
