Camino Day 30: Ambasmestas to OCebreiro
“The fragrance always stays in the hand that gives the rose.”
Day 16.8 kms - 24,296 steps
We walk into Galicia.
The walk today is all uphill and the weather is perfect. After her initial enthusiasm, Sylvie has mentioned a couple of times about “not really liking horse riding” and has concerns she might be stiff afterwards so I suggest we cancel the horses and walk, which we do, but then on the trail, we meet the man with the horses and she feels badly for him so pays him Euro30 as a cancellation fee. He kisses her. I am reminded once again why Sylvie is so awesome!
We begin the ascent. It’s long and steep, the start of the path is rocky and uneven. The stone walls that line the path are mossy with dense vegetation all around. As we walk up from the valley the views are jaw dropping! I feel strong and fit again and the walk is just perfect. Happiness!
At the top we reach O’Cebriero. It’s a tiny stone village sitting on top of a ridgeline with spectacular views in every direction. Its also bitterly cold with a light drizzle and a fog has settled over the valley so the amazing view disappears before our eyes – only to clear again a short time later. The wind is chilly but we are distracted from finding our hotel by the unique hobbit-esque buildings called “palloza”. Stone houses with tiny doors and huge thatched roofs. Traditional homes of the area. I imagine the weather here is always like this. We are drawn to the church, its bell ringing low and loud, a beacon in the fog. It’s the oldest church on Camino, dating back to the 9th Century. The parish priest who was responsible for resurrecting the Camino – including painting the yellow arrow markers – is buried here.
It’s so cold, we settle into our very simple accommodation and head to a bar form lunch. This town is a world heritage site, it has tour buses and souvenir stores. It’s a bit of a shock. Tourists. Of course we are tourists too – but we are also pilgrims. It’s different. We find a great place for lunch, a cozy cellar with rafters full of dried herbs and a roaring fire – more happiness!
We grab a table close to the fire but the stoic waitress ignores us. We wonder how long she can avoid us, when another couple wander in and she insists they sit with us (although there are other empty tables). Its little awkward but its her place. So OK with us. Turns out our new friends, Simone and Sergio don’t speak English. They speak a little Spanish and so do we so a really fun and more than slightly crazy afternoon begins. They are from Brazil and were pilgrims riding bikes to Santiago when at Ponferrada Simone had an accident and broke her toe, so now they are completing the Camino by car. Her foot is in fact all bandaged and wrapped in plastic. Now that our table is full, the waitress serves us delicious lunch, Galician soup and Chicken Stew followed by a huge chunk of delicious apple cake we had seen cooling on a cake rack on the counter. Still more happiness!
The fire starts to dim, so we say goodbye – quick group selfie! Then head across the road to another bar with Phillip & Rob sitting in front of another roaring fire – do we know all the pilgrims in this town? They order cider and get a bottle – alright! It’s a bit rough but so is the wine in this town. The cider comes with the most bizarre apple shaped soda fountain dispenser which sits on top of the bottle and with the push of a button, shoots cider into a glass – provided said glass is in the correct position at the correct angle. I want one for Max! I’m almost tempted to take this one but that would be very unpilgrim like!
Earlier in the day we had gone to the hotel/town laundry where they said we could have our washing done. A bent old woman answered the door, she was in a room with one washer and one dryer and enormous piles of sheets and towels that almost reached the low ceiling. I said that we need our washing done and she explained – yes it was possible, later, because, with a heavy sigh, first I must wash all these sheets. I thought –- oh my! a lot later and we may never see our clothes again. It reminded me of the fairy tale Rumplestiltskin, where the girl was locked in a room filled with straw, to be spun into gold overnight.
