Camino Day 26: Astorga to Rabanal
“If you do not expect the unexpected you will not find it, for it is not to be reached by search or trail.”
Day 26: 2 kilometres - 33,812 steps
This morning I google MARAGATO. We will pass through a Maragato village today. Also, the town clock in Astorga which chimes with a boy and girl hitting the bell (all night long and right outside our window!!) are wearing traditional Maragato costume. Interesting!
It’s cool and clear as we head out of town. I’m sorry to leave, I found this town delightful, an unexpected gem.
There are a lot of pilgrims on the path this morning – also a small group on horseback. Its Sunday morning and the outskirts of Astorga we pass a small wooden church, the exterior decorated with pretty mosaics of the camino complete with pilgrims, detailed maps and angels.
The first half of today’s walk is less pretty, more rugged, the landscape looks dry and scrubby, the trees yet to break into their Spring foliage. We come up on our Maragato town. It’s partly deserted, with many crumbling buildings and just one or two bars for peregrinos. But we love it. El Ganso. The town is like a time capsule. I can image a film crew filming a classic western here.
The second part of our walk is more striking, through woodlands and a large section of wire fencing bizarrely decorated with stick crosses – Blair Witch style. Creepy.
We hike up a steep mountain to a lone village for the night – Rabanal. Its an extremely beautiful alpine village, well preserved and pretty. Its steep incline to our hotel at the top of town but we see a lovely café and we haven’t eaten. Then we see Nat! He has booked a room. He says he couldn’t bear to move on when this town was so pretty, so we eat lunch with him and Rob who wander past just after we order.
Tonight there is a pilgrim blessing in the church with Gregorian Chants at 7pm, plenty of time for a bath and phone calls home.
The little church where the monks held the service was so beautiful – no gold!! When we arrived the chapel was very dimly lit, just a timber statue of Jesus on the Cross and lots of branches with leaves. The interior of the church was in some disrepair as chunks of the render had fallen away leaving the exposed stonework. Honestly looked perfectly art-directed. The monk asked for no photos so we will have to burn that one to memory. The service itself was all sung in Gregorian chants. Quite lovely and very peaceful. The church was packed. We lit candles for Sylvies mum and for Donna.
