Camino Day 16: Hornillos to Castrojeriz
“People will forget what you said, people will forget what you did, but people will never forget how you made them feel.”
Day 16: 21.4 kilometres - 31,344 steps
A taxi collected us this morning and returned us to Hornillos.
Spectacular views today of lush fields spreading out in all directions.
At lunchtime we approach a town - Hontanas. It’s interesting because it seems like this is the first town we walk down into (rather than up to). The town is set in the bottom of the valley, not at the top of a hill. The town is sweet, with planters full of Spring flowers, and the sun is shining, it’s an irresistible combination. So, although it’s a little early we decide to lunch at a cafe which claims to have the best Paella on the Camino. Donna is hooked - she bustles her way into the kitchen with her usual huge smile, the kind of charm the Spanish seem to love. It helps that her Spanish language skills are non-existent - any protests from the staff go right over her head and she is so blissfully unaware - no-one ever seems to care. After some time spent in the kitchen watching and taking photos she emerges, delighted, and proclaims - it is the real deal! Although we need to wait a little longer until its ready - we do and its delicious.
While we wait, a procession of pilgrims we now know trickle through. Everyone stops to say hello, a few take Donna’s advice and stop to join our table.
After lunch we stumble into the tiny church. They have a corner set aside with cushions for weary pilgrims (or those who have indulged a little too much over lunch!) and bibles in many languages. It’s very comforting and welcoming.
As we continue on, we are again surprised at how beautiful and picturesque the surroundings are. This is not what we were expecting from the Meseta.
We arrive in Castrojeriz. It’s hot and we are looking keenly for our hotel in this sprawling town, which is much larger than we had anticipated. Each turn shows an incredible view over the surrounding fields.
We strike gold with the Hotel Emebed. The front of the hotel is unassuming but as soon as we open the front door we see a substantial and immaculately renovated property decorated in Eithiopian art. The owner takes us up to our rooms and promptly delivers us a foot spa! Heaven!!!
Once we have settled in she takes us for a tour of the property. She explains that she lives in Madrid over winter and only opens the hotel between April and November. Tonight we are her only guests. This hotel is extraordinary and has a gorgeous balcony with those to-die-for views. Yet the really special part was underneath the building. The ground floor of this building was traditionally used for keeping animals, and indeed the water troughs are still features, in what is now a large and glamorous sitting room. In the corner is a stairwell leading to the extensive cellar. The cellar is part of a large labyrinth of underground tunnels, which at one stage would have connected many of the towns buildings together. Long ago most of the tunnels were blocked off or caved in and now the cool dark passageways only hint at how these underground networks may have served the townsfolk.
POSTCARDS FROM Hornillos to Castrojeriz
